It was cold and dark and foggy when I met up with Mike Richeson and Peter Beeson on Sunday morning, November 20th, a week ago. The ride started at the Duvall Safeway, which is the centerpiece of a mini-mall on the south end of town. Despite the glowing red "S", and all the newness and neon of the mall itself, and despite even Peter B's perpetual good cheer, there was little to dispel the mournfulness and gloom that seemed to be swirled in with the mists and vapors of the immediate scene. Real Sherlock Holmes stuff. I don't think any of us would have been surprised to hear the howl of a werewolf or the sight of a hunchback skulking off to some dank little hole in the earth.
This early break in the narrative is to tell you about my gear. Those on the edges of their seats can skip ahead.
BIKE
Surly Long Haul Trucker
Mavic A719 touring rims
32mm Panaracer Pasela tires
Brooks saddle with Serfas cover
Shimano Tiagra triple/9-speed drivetrain with bar-end shifters
Planet Bike fenders with mud flaps front and back.
CLOTHES
Gloves, three pairs: full-fingered neoprene "Spokes" gloves; 1/2-finger rag wool gloves that Grant Petersen won't shut up about; full-fingered, army-issue, thin wool gloves.
Thin wool tights under Ibex El Frito Knickers
Knee-length ski socks
Thin polypro shirt and thin wool shirt, both with sleeves cut off to make "shests" or "virts". HINT: shirt+vest=???
Traditional wool jersey.
Wool arm-warmers.
Extra arm-warmers.
Thin wind-proof vest.
Burly Jacket
Bike shoes. Neoprene booties.
Wool beanie. Polypro balaclava.
TOOLS
3 Allen wrenches.
"Fender wrench" that's, I think, 10mm.
Spoke wrench.
Chain tool.
Patch kit (Park).
Frame pump.
Swiss Army knife w/screwdrivers, small pliers and no corkscrew.
Spare tube.
LIGHT
Cateye Opticube (the big one) that's especially lousy on wet roads.
Three blinky red lights on the back all Cateye but none were my favorite model which is the - drum roll please! - I don't know. It's the one that's always blinking up and down on Peter Beeson's bike. Long and thin. Cateye. It's the best. Anything else is inferior. (I think he's talking about the TL-LD600. -Ed.)
We headed North through town then peeled off to our right, Eastward, in an almost instant exchange of town for country: Barns stables, and fields to our right; to our left, woods sloping down to the quiet, slow-moving Skykomish.
It's funny, I guess, that things can sometimes be so miserable and so beautiful at the same time. On rides like these you see this particular paradox all the time, but there are other kinds, too. When I say it was cold I mean it was crystals-in-the-water-bottle cold.
Put the balaclava down your shorts cold. Why-are-my-brake-cables-stuck(?!?!) cold. And then for some reason you reposition your outlook for a blip and actually "see" the droplets of the fog passing through the beam of your headlamp all silvery swirly and soft and it's so particular and lovely that you forget momentarily that there's a bed back home, probably still warm.
Chasing down your buddies gets your blood pumping and lets you forget that you're cold. The road ahead delineated less by its own form than by the blinking lights that seem to be snaking off into oblivion. You channel your inner Eddy and hammer, and spin, and hammer, and hammer until you're hooked on again and hot as a boiler.
Until, that is, you're chilled again by the realization that the wooden bridge you're thudding over is covered with frozen moss.
You're hot but you're cold. It's miserable but beautiful. You're Eddy Merckx but you're chasing down a couple of middle-aged men. This, my friends, is the Essence of Rando, and it's not for everybody.
I had just caught up to Peter and Mike and was busy pretending I'd fallen off the pace purely on a whim when Peter pulled out his magic wand and - "Pling" - I was the guy doing the ride report. Ample opportunity here for me to talk about how Peter does the "Pling" thing in character, complete with blond ringlets and tiara, but since I've already characterized him as middle aged I'll just skip it.
Where was I? Oh yeah, ride report. Now I was riding along and looking at everything and wondering how I was going to write about it. How am I going to describe that frost-encrusted fence post? How am I going to describe the "weight" of the smoke coming from that chimney? How can I describe the fact that right now I'm riding over a grated bridge and yet I'm "seeing" my self from below, from under the bridge, through the "eyes" of a trout....
At one point we were riding three abreast like Ponch and John, and..."Sarge" I guess, silent except for the whir of our tyres on the tarmac, the beams of our lights on the road ahead, I remembered the lines from Dylan Thomas:
Do not go gentle into that good night
Rage, rage against the dying of the Light
Bingo! Not only had I found a title for my thingy, but I'd also hit on a major theme for the ride: Raging against the dying of the light.
On Nov. 20 the WOUL (window of usable light) was between 7:00am and 4:30pm. That's 9.5 hours of light available for a ride we were planning to do in 15.5 hours. On this schedule, and barring any complications, we were looking at a minimum of six hours of night riding, four of which were ACTUALLY GOING TO BE AT NIGHT!!!
That up there was technical-sounding stuff for the technical people in the audience. Truth is, I'm not very technical and anyway I was riding my new bike which doesn't have a computer yet and so I really don't have much to offer in the way of hard numbers. If you're wondering about how my new bike is, it's great. I love it.
For those of you following along to this broadcast in your De Lorme Gazeteer, we're on Page 80, about midway between Hwy 203 and Ben Howard Road. It's still dark, and in just a bit we'll head North on Mann Road and in to Sultan for a quick stop at a quick mart, at right around mile 20.
At mile 21 I punctured. This was at the very first part of Highway 2 going East, just outside of Sultan. While much has been written on the subject of flats, nothing quite approaches the meticulous codification and thoroughness that Dr.Vivian St. Swivens brings to it in The Book of Flats (Cambridge, 1974). For the type of flat I had I think it's best to stick with his classic description:
"One is ultimately hard put to find a flat more common, more banal, and in such utter want of anything in it vital enough to have the strength to die than the Denial Flat. Here, the rider finds himself saying, "My, but isn't the road rather dreadful just here", or "No, the steering's fine. I just need a cup of tea" until the material facts assert themselves more clearly and something needs be done."
With the flat fixed off we went. Peter played the part of the hare on this whole side of the mountain, scampering up to Skykomish first, and then off again and first to the pass after we took a break. Next in line was Mike as the defacto tortoise, and then me as the defacto manatee. The way up was like riding into the arms of the sun. The road was wet from run-off, rain, and fog, and lit up and glowing with sunlight. To our left the peaks of Index and Baring burned white. To our right the waters at Canyon and Sunset falls did their usual incredibly dazzling thing.
At the Skykommish stop we each took on water and fuel, and it was nice to "click click" around on two feet before heading onward and upward. Click click click click, men's room. Click click click, Gatorade. Click click, Red Bull. Click, Snickers. Click click, cigarette lighter shaped like a Smith and Wesson. Click click - Whoa! What's this?! A cowboy with a belt buckle the size of a dart board! We look at each other trying to figure out who's going to say trick-or-treat first, but it's a perfect standoff! I pay for my drugs and I'm about to leave when he says - get this! - "Have a nice ride, guy."
Bursting with the eloquence of the inarticulate I stammer, "You too"
I'm ready to put my foot in my mouth and start chewing when an angel of dignified recovery visits me and I manage, "I mean, if that's what you say to someone who rides...uh..."
"Bulls and Broncs," he says. "Ride -em both."
"Jeez"-- Click click click, Ensure--"Falling off one of those must make falling off a bike seem like a walk in the park."
"I wouldn't know, on both counts. Thing is, though, we fall on dirt, you fall on pavement and that's gotta hurt. We need to be a little more worried about what's falling ON us, like a big ol bull!"
I left the store marveling a little at the strange things people do for fun and fulfillment. As we were pulling away from the Chevron, the cowboy and his wife gave a "beep-beep" from their Subaru and toodled off ahead of us.
The rest of the way up the pass was like what we had just covered - sunny and nice - except for the last 1/2 mile or so, which was steep and spiced to perfection with a really cold and blustery headwind. There was no stopping me, though. I was in full-fantasy mode, out of the saddle and torqueing my way to the summit in slo-mo as the music from the sound track - Foreigner, oddly--reaches a crescendo:
"Feels like the first time
Feels like the very first time..."
We were stopped at the ski slope, our bikes leaned up against the snow-banks by the road, and I had just enough time to feather my hair back. Skiers and snowboarders clunked guiltily past us in puffy outfits while we did our best to keep our gloating to a minimum. I put on booties, doubled up on the gloves, pulled the balaclava out of my shorts and put it on my head, and put on my jacket. After that we were rolling again. About 10:30 a.m.
And not long after that - somewhere between Stevens Pass and Stevens Alpine Center - at a cruising speed of, oh, 28mph - BOOM! - the back tire blew! An HFC flat, which St. Swivens characterizes thus:
"The Holy-[expletive]-Crap! Flat is marked by a violent burst of the tyre's inner-tube, which is accompanied by a loud report and, in short succession, the utter surprise and panic of the rider."
Charlie Rose: What did you do? I mean, a flat tire at speed on a slick road is pretty hairy isn't it?
Fred Mulder: Terrifying, Charlie. I don't know how I would have handled it if I weren't such a stud. What I did - I mean, in a nutshell - is squeeze the brakes until I thought my fingers were going to snap off and then drag my feet on the ground until I finally came to a stop, maybe a 1/4 mile later. It's something we practice a lot. But, as you may know, Charlie, problems have a way of breeding more problems. In this case, it was a bent rim resulting from the flat, a ding right where the tire and the rim touch, which in turn had the effect of leaving my rear brake all but useless. That's the problem that came back to haunt me...blah blah blah"
So now we're on Page 82 of De Lorme. We've been booking along, sharing turns at the front, enjoying the slight warmth we get as we drop in altitude. It's cold, and dead, and gray, and melancholy, and beautiful anyway. The riding itself, the movement and the pace, is beautiful, and fun.
At Cols Corner I pull off the road and tell Mike and Peter to keep going. I only mean to fill my bottles at the Log Cabin Lattes drive-thru and then blast off after them. It's only when I'm passing my bottles through the window that I realize that the girl running the stand is none other than Veronica Mars, TV high school sleuth!
"Hey Veronica", I say. "Love your show - oh, hey, can you PLEASE fill these?!? I'm thirsty like McNirsty."
She gives me a look that says, "McNirsty?"
"McNirtsty?" I say. "Ron McNirsty? You know, the accordion player on Lawrence Welk that..."
She smiles, sort of. "Thanks", she says, and then, with horror not entirely feigned, "Um, do you want me to do something about whatever's GROWING in this bottle?"
"No time," I say. "I am wondering, though, what you're up to out here."
"If I told you..."
"You'd have to kill me. Thought so. Bye Veronica. Thanks."
"Bye, Fred."
Time to catch Peter and Mike, I channel Judas Priest and let the power of their music charge me. I hammer, and spin, and hammer, and hammer and pretty soon my blood is pumping and I'm one with the lyrics.
"If you think I'll sit around as the world goes by
You're thinkin like a fool -cuz it's a case of do or die.
Out there is a fortune waiting to be had,
You think I'll let it go you're mad
You got another thing comin'...."
In no time at all I'm back with Mike and Peter, spinning our way along the river, the rocks and trees on the banks dusted with snow. We were in good spirits and riding fast.
Leavenworth was a welcome site. The streets were empty - I rode with no hands through the center of town - and the town itself was socked-in and gray, which sounds like a bleak picture but to a group of riders it's really a relief not to deal with the usual squadrons of gurgling Harleys and aimlessly wandering tourists.
After the Chevron control I popped ahead of my companions to check on the status of Der Rad Haus, the local bike shop, to pick up some extra tubes and see if I could do anything about my rim, but the sign told the story: "Schlussen im Winter."
An about-face pointed me toward our lunch spot, a restaurant with an apparently (I'm a regular Mr. Magoo without my glasses, and I wasn't wearing them) bold take on the "fusion" concept--German-Irish cuisine. I stepped in to Der McDonalds, ordered the schnitzel (served in "nugget" form, clever) und frites, and sat down with the boys. Beverages were a serve-yourself affair presided over proudly by the head waiter, whose arms sported the tattoo work peculiar to more than one government run institution, and whose necktie was embroidered with pictures of the restaurant's mascots - Der Grimmace, die Fry Guys, Die Hamburgler, und Mayor McCheese.
"Nice tie", I say, trying to be banter-rific.
"This?!" he says, leaning in. "Oh man! Dude! I HATE wearing this thing! I wish they could, you know, silk-screen the thing right on to the shirt! Save me some time in the morning!"
We finished and left, and booked it out of town hoping to make Stevens Pass with some light left for the descent.
No dice. Mike Richeson flatted eight miles before the summit, right where BNSF crosses the road. I remember this spot because someone had managed to put a perfectly spec'd, absolutely world-class snowman up on the trestle, complete with coal buttons courtesy of the train! The tire had to be repaired twice, really: Once to replace the tube, and again to replace the tire itself, which revealed a large split upon inflation. The whole operation took about 25-30 minutes.
It was about 5:30pm and dark when we hit the pass. A tired skier looked us over as we prepped for the descent and said...in essence, "That's crazier than anything I would try."
Mike was rigged with a huge assortment of lights: A NightSun-type light mounted to his bars; a generator light mounted to his fork; a headlamp and I think a few other forward facing lights. He had three red blinking lights on the back, all bright and visible.
Peter had his usual excellent set-up: two parallel fork-mounted generator lights; two parallel stay-mounted rear blinkies.
All I had was some rear blinkies and a lousy CatEye Opticube Whatever and, Let Me Tell You People, on a wet road, on a steep and rutted grade, with truck traffic and drunk ski traffic roaring up behind me and passing with a "GET OFF THE ROAD!!" thrown in, with stark terror running through my veins and a rear brake that was basically useless, my little CatEye was totally, totally, TOTALLY INADEQUATE!!! Anyone who wants to talk about how a minimum of light can actually be a nice thing can actually just TALK TO THE HAND. Twirling gaily up a mountain pass on a balmy summer night and having pretty thoughts about the stars is one thing - and, okay, a good thing - but bombing down an icy pass in November is another thing entirely and - sorry if you don't want to be TOLD anything - you want as much light as you can get!
While I'm on the subject of WHAT YOU WANT, here's another thing. Skip ahead if you're offended. You're new to Randonneuring and you need a rig? Simple:
Surly Pacer
Open Pros
Ruffy Tuffy's
Ultegra brakes and drivetrain, or whatever
Fenders w/ flaps front and back
A rack? Maybe.
With all the money I just saved you, you can buy the best lights in the world, and I suggest you do it. With the time I just saved you, you can read a book, maybe Proust.
Thank you, Peter Beeson, for guiding me down the pass.
After regrouping at the bottom we rolled in to Gold Bar together and stopped for a bathroom break. We rolled out single file, the best way to negotiate the traffic that runs in a single lane in those parts. Peter on-point, Mike in the middle, me in the back.
I saw it all.
What I told the police officer was that we were going between 20 and 25mph. Peter's right index finger was still pointing to the pothole in the road when Mike maneuvered one way, then another, then hit the pothole on a slant. He went down prone, like Pete Rose into third, his bike still clipped to his feet and dragging behind him, all those blinking red lights skittering ahead of him on the pavement.
I wasn't exactly off the hook at this point. There was traffic behind me and a downed cyclist 1.76 seconds ahead of me.
Swerve left? Traffic.
Swerve right? Curbs. Ruts.
Plow through? Ouch! Double Ouch!
Bunny Hop? Nobody actually does that, do they?
I did a double-swerving plow-hop with an impromptu foot drag. It was my only option.
Time to deal, isn't it?
Stop traffic or immobilize Mike?
Do both. I yelled at Mike not to move while I waved some cars around. Nothing was barreling in just then so I put my head down to check out Mike.
Snoring. Out like a light.
Meanwhile, Peter called 911 and stood next to Mike with his blinkies flashing up the road, an alert to oncoming cars.
In - what? - five minutes the Fire Department was there working on Mike, and from that point until the time we got out of there Peter and I were the go-to guys for explanations and details. I think it was Peter who called Mike's wife--and all I can say about that is that I hope I never have to do that, and I hope he never has to do that again.
The ride was pretty much shot to hell. After all the commotion and stress, and with Mike's prognosis still questionable, neither of us felt like riding.
(And that's all on the one hand. On the other, and I feel like a ghoul for saying it, I felt like I was quitting a marathon in the 24th mile! Just 90 minutes of easy pedaling and my 5000k monkey would be off my back, or ready at least to morph into some other kind of monkey! Maybe RUSA should come up with a phantom mileage award for the mileage people accrue before DNFing. Right now I'm at 375m.)
We got a ride back to the start from a young fireman and then caravanned from there to the hospital in Everett to check on Mike. Apart from looking like he'd just gone two rounds with Mike Tyson, and another two rounds with a bobcat, he looked to be doing...O.K...just in need of some healing time. Mike's wife, daughter, and grand-daughter were there, looking relieved that things were only as they were and not worse. Nice people.
A few lessons learned:
If you can't move a downed rider you can at least keep him or her warm. Cover the person with jackets and spare clothes. It can't hurt (at least if it's cold out) and it lets you feel like you're doing something.
Don't ride Stevens Pass Westbound if the conditions are bad.
Good lights can help you ride faster, which in a lot of cases is the safest way to ride.
At home I was able to check my bike out after riding 175 miles in rainy, snowy, gritty conditions and here's what I noticed - a front mud-flap does a lot to keep your feet dry and your drive train clean. Really. It translates to less muck to clean up and parts that last longer.
Just because my back brake was shot doesn't mean I didn't use it when push came to shove. At home I noticed two inner-tube "blisters" poking through the sidewall of my brand new Panaracer Pasela. Yikes!
Paselas are great tires, but in conditions like the ones on this ride go with something with a bombproof sidewall.
Part of the ethic of randonneuring, whether stated explicitly somewhere or not, is that (I'll put the rest in quotes to simulate some kind of haunting inner-voice.) "while we may not be racers or superstars we sure as hell are RIDERS. WE RIDE, damn it, even if it's cold, or dark, or sleeting, or even if it means riding the wrong way up a freeway. WE RIDE."
The good part of this ethic (and yes, I exaggerated) is that it turns what we do into a sport. The bad part about is that it's a form of pressure that can bring about bad decisions. In a sense, my decision to ride down the pass with cheesy lights was "made good" by the fact that there were no unlucky or disastrous consequences. Sure, it's flawed logic, but it's something we all do to a greater or lesser degree. It's called gambling.
Sometimes the only thing harder than standing up to your enemies is standing up to your friends.
And sometimes that so-called "friend" is yourself. It's such a chestnut that I feel a little like Shaggy lecturing Scoob, but don't reach for the remote just yet. All I'm saying is don't be a knob when your buddies get wimpy. Let them go there, and try really hard to contain the fires of smugness and disdain that seem to be breaking out everywhere within you. It's hard, sure, but we're RIDERS, not racers, and that's how we do it.
Editors notes:
Dylan Thomas "Do not go gentle into that good night" can be found at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Do_not_go_gentle_into_that_good_night
Foreigner's "Feels Like the First Time" is the very first track on their very first album - the self-titled "Foreigner" released in 1977.
Judas Priest's "You've Got Another Thing Coming" can be found on their 1982 "Screamin for Vengeance" album.
The Bishop of Winchester, or St Swithin (St. Swivins), died in AD 862. In legend the monks could not remove his body for 40 days and 40 nights because of torrential rain. It has now become folklore that if it rains on St Swithin's day (July 15), it will rain for 40 days and 40 nights.
An example of Fred's bike can be found here - http://www.surlybikes.com/virtual_LHT.html
"Ponch and John" is a reference to the TV show "CHiP's."
"Shaggy lecturing Scoob" is a reference to "The Scooby Doo Show."
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